The haze and a not so happy Hari Raya

Been back for over a week now...

Was glad to be back...but the haze really took my breath away...literally...I was coughing until my insides felt so sore...so i was in the office..and out of the office...taking some time off so that my colleagues didn't think that I was spreading a most deadly cough to them all...

Somehow being back was fun but...gone was all the independence and solitary loneliness that I had grown so accustommed to....it was back to the...chores and my mom nagging me to do this and to do that at home...when all i wanted to do was stone...

At least i got to spend some time with iman..so that was good.

Then hari raya!...yeesh..i wasn't in the mood for any sort of celebration...feeling all lazy and grumpy...but to avoid getting the parents all worked up...i did the dutiful daughter bit and went along visiting...to my granny's place and to see my two aunts after...

We got back home early which was good...and i got to chill and even go to bed before 12....but my oh my...i had the runs alll morning....spent the entire morning in the loo...from 2-6pm...
clutching my gut praying that i live to see the morning...

I did....and i spent the day in bed after getting my dose of medicine...

Hmm...things did seem certainly more exciting back in Lahore...oh well...its still good to be back.

Day 20- Guns & Sher Khurmani

Guns, guns, guns

I went shopping a couple of nights ago at Liberty market with Amelia. As we shopped, my eyes transfixed upon the beautiful shoes, jewellery and fabrics, Amelia commented ," Don't you find the men standing around with those rifles really disturbing?"

Honestly, I didn't even notice them. I hastily agreed as we continued to plough through the shops. Buying as much as our left over currency could afford us.

Later in the evening, we were in another shop purchasing a wedding shalwar kameez for Daniel who will be wedding in Singapore in December. As i paid for my purchase, i turned to find a man standing guard by the door with a rifle in hand.

Recalling the previous 'conversation' that took place with Amelia, I instinctively turned back to the shop-keeper while pointing at the gun, " GUN? Why? No Good! Gun No Good! No Gun next-time" and walked out.

I didn't notice the horrified look on Amelia's face, but when we left the shop she went ," What were you thinking, scolding the man about the gun!" It still didn't hit me what she was antagonising about when i realised that that man (with the rifle) could have taken drastic action against me if he had taken offence to what i had said.

I could have been at the receiving end of that rifle...and so could Amelia- which explained how antagonised she appeared.

Sher Khurmani

One of our new found friends brought us out for a good Pakistani meal 2 days ago. Realising the team's love for ice-cream he suggested that we tried a good local ice-cream store at Bidden Road- which was a local shopping district for dried food stuff.

We went into this little local restaurant only to have the entire restaurant stare at this group of foreigners troop into the restaurant talking at the top of our voices and dressed so peculiarly- in things that were not shalwar Kameezes.

The flavours they offered were amazing like Pine- Apple, Real Strawberry, Pistach and Kulfa (a local desert). The thing that fascinated us was a flavour called- Sher Khurmani.

As our local friend didn't know what flavour that was, we asked the waiter," What is Sher Khurmani?"

And he replied ," Sher Khurmani ice-cream."

We broke into peals of laughter and ordered other flavours instead. I must say, the ice-cream here is amazing!

Day 16- 2 girls out an about town

Amelia and company are here! A different change in ppl! =) And Amelia is certainly a better shopping kaki than my previous company!

Last night we decided to go out to Liberty market on a rickshaw. Just two foreign girls out and about town! We walked out and got a rickshaw with a friendly rickshaw wallah who, after dropping us off, told us that he could wait for us to make the return trip.

I must say we were very relieved that we got to our destination. I think we both subconciously were worried that we would be kidnapped and sold off as prostitutes!....but that didn't happen...
thank god!

We shopped like noone's business! I got Daniel's wedding kurta at a steal! I do hope they like it! A pair of slippers for me, a pair of slippers for Alicia and some earrings too! Amelia bought quite a couple of things too!

Then we went to Pace supermarket, where the crowd was just amazing. Everyone was out for Eid shopping. Funnily enough, it was these 2 foreign girls who they thought probably didn't celebrate Eid who had the most shopping bags!

We then stopped at Nirala sweets for me to get my Kulfi fix! I love Kulfi....its sooooo delicious. But Amelia didn't like it, so I had to gobble up the entire thing all by myself..which wasn't really a problem.

We then headed back completely pleased with our shopping escapade. I was horrified though when i got back to realise that I'm only left with about 100 Sing dollars! Yeesh! No more shopping. Only got to get one kurta for Imans younger bro..and maybe cookies for home.

I've put a restraining order on my shopping....or maybe just for another earring or two!

Day 15- Communication Breakdown

The drivers hanging out outside the office.

I get car-sick here. Mostly cos the weather is really hot, the air-con sometimes whirrs to a slow warm death, and the roads are bumpier than a motorcross GP circuit. So i sit in the front seat next to our driver, and enjoy the air-con blast at me with the full force of one of those mini hand-fans people carry about foolishly.

Anyhow, I've created a bond with one of our drivers Arshad. Arshad is this really gentle-spoken doe eyed man with the sweetest smile ever. He calls me Nur...not like Nor..but a gentle Noooooor.. cos Iva just doesn't suit him i guess.

Well, Arshad and I have developed our own communicating style. I speak a little Urdu, and always take the opportunity to give him instructions like, “Office, Janna. Challo!” (We’re going to the office, let’s go!) or “Swera janna, ek minute” (Let’s go the the Swera supermarket for a minute).

Besides little word like this, we get along with an absurd amount of body language that we both look like monkey trying to pick fleas from our own backs! Arshad is also my tutor as I try and read the Urdu words in Arabic script, and I think he’s quite pleased with my Urdu progress so far.

Talking about communication breakdowns, PL is trying her best to communicate too. She’s picked up a little bit of Urdu, but certainly not enough to get into any sort of debates with anyone.

Today’s Friday and is usually a half-day for all government offices. But the officers in the department we’re attached to work real hard and stay for most of Friday, after their Jum’at prayers.

The office also has a group of drivers and it dawned upon us that perhaps the drivers would not be able to go home until they sent us back. We really didn’t want to hold them back, so PL decided to go verify the information.

She went outside where the drivers hung out and started what looked like an airport runway!

She started with- “You go home, I go home. I not go home, you not go home?” with her hands flaying about as if she was desperately trying to land an A380.

The drivers got up and also started to wave their hands about asking, “You go home, I go home. I not go home, you not go home?”

This was obviously not working. But being a determined woman, PL persevered in her effort of bridging the communication gap with even greater arm movements, and exaggerated facial expressions!

Finally, after five minutes of this being repeated back and forth, PL did what every wise person would do. She gave up.

“Nevermind, Tik Hey (Its OK!), Bilkul Tik Hey (Everything is alright!). Shukria! (thanks!)”

Day 13- You don't want to have your car towed!

Yup, this is how they tow a car!

Day 12- Stuck in a Jam

Traffic can be really bad here in Lahore. REAL BAD! And the driving? Even worse! But what I really admire about the people here is that the bad traffic doesn’t faze them at all. You don’t get screaming and shouting, and cussing! Ok maybe it’s because I’m always driving with the government drivers and they probably aren’t suppose to cuss in front of foreign ladies!

But I’ve noticed that they’re generally laid back, and relaxed. At most, they let out a quiet, ‘Tsk!’ or even better, shake their head and grin at me about the absurdity of the driving conditions and ‘techniques’ here!

This evening, I went shopping. And we decided to chuck the hotel car and go local. We went on a rickshaw, which isn’t the traditional and typical Singapore rickshaw but really a smaller tuk tuk! On a diesel engine that revs so loud that it feels as if the gear box would just explode. It was a really bumpy ride, I was giggling out loud as we bounced around. On the way there, PL, David and me, squeezed into the back like a tin of sardines. It was hilarious.

On the way back, we decided to take the bigger one with seats facing the back. It was a hoot, because the drivers and motorcyclist were staring straight at me and PL while they drove through the traffic. I love the people here, they’re so friendly. So we were waved at by young men, older men, older ladies-all happy to say hello!

Even shopping is such a pleasure, they always welcome you to their shops and never fail to smile and say, ‘It’s ok!’ when I say sorry when I don’t like shoe designs, or the kurtas are too gaudy!

Day 8 - My Heart Will Go On

I rolled out of bed at about nine plus and joined PL and David for breakfast. Well they ate and I watched. Still fasting! =)

I was all psyched about the F1 Shanghai Race that started at 11am. I watched Alonso pick up the lead and Kimi, fight his way to 3rd position from the armchair before deciding that the bed would be more comfortable. Bad move, next thing I knew I drowsily saw Schumacher take the lead before I fell back to deep sleep. I only woke at the chequered flag, disappointed that Schumacher took the win, but consoled that Renault took first and second place. So that wasn’t too bad.

Then I flipped channels and found Titanic showing. WRONG MOVE! All I could think about was MY Jack, my darling… and before I knew it, I was all tears- desperately missing my sayang. So I grabbed my phone and was slightly consoled by his sleepy voice.

One week down, 2 more to go.

After the movie, I got on my lappie and did work to keep my mind off things. Went out for dinner to a Chinese restaurant, where we had some good clear chicken soup. And Sweet and sour fish, with a chicken dish, that tasted like it was sweet and sour too! Yeesh! But the change was good.

Hit a sweet shop after and had some raas malai. By that time, my tummy wasn’t feeling good again. And I spent the rest of the evening finishing some work, while a glass of Eno kicked in helping some trap air release itself- if you know what I mean!

And then…and then….guess what came on the TV? BEVERLY HILLS 90210! Hahahaha! A tv show from the 80s! Or was it the early 90s!!!!

Ok gotta go…Iman just called! Allah Hafeeez… (bye)…

Day 7 - In Love

A week, spellbinding.

Everyday, I fall deeper and deeper in love with this old city. There is a certain charm and character that I have grown to respect. A warmth that makes my heart glow as I walk the streets at night.

Last night, we explored the chowks (markets) reveling in the beauty and splendour of woven wonders of silk. Storekeepers ever ready with friendly smiles beckoning for me to touch the rich fabrics, to sample their wares. Entranced by the glitter of the silks that hung before me, enchanted by the smiles that lined the dusty streets.





Dinner.
Into the old walled city we ventured. Near the back alleys of the red-light district where the dancing girls of Lahore, many moons past, threw back their heads in pleasure as they enticed and entranced. Up a narrow staircase to a rooftop restaurant overlooking the fort and mosque. The mosque lights lit up the night, while the Imam melodiously filled the still-night air with terawih verses that stirred both appetite and senses.





I’ve fallen in love with this enchanting city. Beneath the dust, I’ve found a treasure I hope always to keep close to my heart.

Day 5 - Room Service

Part 1

There isn’t a hot water boiler in the room. Every time I need a hot drink, I’d have to call for room service. The water is free but a tip is always expected.

A request for “Some Hot Water” to be sent to the room, usually comes with a pot of hot boiling water hidden under a hideous tea cozy (I thought tea cozies when extinct a long time ago), a cup and saucer; and a spoon.

Two nights ago, I thought it would be a good idea to have some oatmeal in the evening for supper.I called for room service and asked specifically for, “some hot water, brown sugar and please, don’t forget the spoon”.

I wanted some sugar for my oatmeal, and remembered also that room service had forgotten to bring me a spoon once.I wasn’t about to use my hands to eat gooey hot oatmeal.

When the waiter arrived, he came exactly with that- hot water, sugar, and a spoon.
No tea cup! I had oatmeal in the little bowl of sugar satchets that night.


Part 2

There’s a room service waiter I’m terribly afraid of. He’s a tall, thin, gawky fella with a thick bushy moustache and a matching set of eyebrows. The first time he entered my room balancing a tray of hot water and tea cups, he paused looked at me asked me how I was and entered the room, saying:“You can close the door, madam”.
As if he was going to put the tray down, flop on the bed and say (while smoothening the sheets in a beckoning fashion)

“ Aja …Aja… ” (come here, in Urdu).

Not that I was contemplating it at all, but the thought, “Hmm…I don’t think Iman would approve of this” did flash across my mind.

I smiled and said,“Hmm.. no it’s ok”.

Since that first time, everytime he came to send me water, he’d ask me the same-
to close the door. And once, he turned to attempt to shut the door while I half-squealed out in anxiousness,“No, it’s ok”, reaching out to keep the door open.

He still sends me water, but now I hold the door firm and stay by the door while he comes in and out of the room.

I think we’ve established that pattern.

Now, all I have to do is get used to him leaning into my face and asking me,
“Is there anything else you need, Madam?”.

“No, not at all. That is fine, thank you.”

*slam*




Picture of PL and the jolly-not-so-green Giant

Day 4 - Iftar, Iftar, Iftar, Iftar

It’s been really hot.
Yesterday work was so tiresome because we had 5 meetings at different locations in the city and spent so much time traveling.
Hot sun, air-conditioners blowing hot air into a van bumping up and down, lunging to and fro made me feel really really sick.
PL was nice enough to let me go back to the hotel early while she handled some contract stuff, before our post Iftar meeting.
Yeah, post Iftar meeting.
Then tonight we started our Iftar dinners.
It’s unbelievable and I find it ridiculous.
See, we started off by offering to host Iftar for our Pakistani friends and counterpart team.
They then thought that they should offer to host us.
Then their bigger Boss said that he should host them too.
So now we had Iftar tonight, we will have Iftar tomorrow and Iftar the day after.
All with the same people!
Man… If we’re not bored of each other yet, we’re going to be quite, quite soon!
Well, I didn’t really enjoy the Iftar today- although there were piles of Jallebi and Gulab Jamun, naan, karis and other most delicious looking stuff- including sushi that looks like plasticine! Really!
I had a Gulab Jamun though (yes, Hun..they were gorgeous)…
And had a tummy ache soon after.
No No…not cos the food isn’t good, but because my tummy is never good during the fast.
Had cramps the entire time, and felt myself bloat up with gas, that slowly seeped out of my ears like a balloon very slowly deflating.
Well, I’m not sure if I’m looking forward to dinner tomorrow.
It will be with the same people. Hope my tum-tum feels better soon.
It’s Day 5, I’m desperately missing home, missing my family, my cat, my friends, gossiping and..
My sweetheart….

15 days to go, it ain’t that bad!